Heating / | All you need to know to have good oven. |
Performance Features furnaces, stoves and fireplaces are largely determined by the quality of masonry, which, in turn, depends on the quality of work, materials used, compliance order size and laying bricks (poryadovok), the purity of the smoke channels.
For masonry stoves, the following materials:
- brick (red, refractory, refractory)
- clay and clay mortar
- Sand
- Wire
- lime
- stove Devices
Panel
Red Brick must be properly burned, have a regular shape, flat bed, flat side faces, straight edges and sharp corners. Such bricks While rapping emit clear sound; they allow masonry joints with 4-5 mm thickness that provides high strength masonry and withstand prolonged soaking in water, when necessary calculations. Unburned brick furnace used to work undesirable. Kiln brick masonry from such a thick seams are — 10 mm or more, it is short-lived.
When soaking unburned brick crumbles, so before laying it accounts for only rinsed with water, and this is not enough for a firm grip of bricks with a solution. Burnt through brick is suitable only for the foundation. When masonry stoves, in addition to the red brick used refractory bricks made from the clay of increased fire resistance and durability (withstands temperatures 900-1000 & deg; C) and a refractory fireclay bricks, manufactured from burnt and ground refractory clay (can withstand temperatures up to 1600 & deg; C).
Clay solution
For the preparation of a clay solution used red or ordinary clay; refractory clay is used only for laying refractory bricks.
The composition of the clay solution as a filler include fine sand with grain size of less than 1 mm. The sand must be clean and free of impurities (sludge, lime and so on. N.). The contaminated sand washed. Best sand is considered to be a mountain, grains which have a rough surface. River sand is less suitable for the clay solution, t. To. Its grains are rounded and poorly adhere to the clay.
Clay solution should have a certain fat content, or plasticity. Lean solutions where little clay, but a lot of sand, fragile seams frequently break out of it, and laying upset. Bold solution with a high content of clay with insufficient sand is good for work, but dries, cracks and gives greater shrinkage.
Through the cracks in the seams with excess cold air enters the furnace and cools the chimney, causing significantly reduced heat output of the furnace.
The most favorable for solution is considered to rain or river water. The water should not be acid and alkali; salt content — min. Preparation of the solution ...
Laying of refractory or refractory bricks is performed on the solution of refractory clay and chamotte (fireclay — refractory clay, fired at 1300-1400 & deg; C (with subsequent grinding). Usually one of the fireclay take 1 part chamotte. & nbsp ;
lime
It is used for the preparation of solutions, is used when laying the foundations of a furnace and the well head pipe located above the roof.
When masonry stoves in addition to bricks, clay and lime, used roofing sheet steel, steel wire, building felt, asbestos and roofing felt (or roofing material).
Steel roofing sheet (black or galvanized, thickness 0,3 — 0,6 mm) used in the construction of stoves, furnaces and light directly on the floor as well as manufacturing predtopochnyh sheets.
Steel wire secure the oven appliances and tiles; It should be soft (for this purpose it is annealed), 2-3 mm thick.
Building Felt practically does not burn and smolder, emitting odor. Before using the felt soaked in a clay solution, which protects felts from moths and improves its insulating properties. Soaked in a clay solution felt isolated from the cutting of furnaces and pipes, wrap the ends of the wooden beams that pass near the flues and razdelok and placed under predtopochnye sheets.
Asbestos - Mineral fireproof insulation material — It is used in the form of sheets of thickness 3 — 5mm. Used instead of felt, especially for laying between the scope of devices and furnace brickwork.
Tol and roofing material is used as a waterproofing material in the construction of the basement under the oven, preventing it from groundwater.
Furnace equipment usually buy ready-made or make yourself from a soft steel sheet desired thickness. By the stove devices include door (flue, ash-pit, cleanout, duhovochnye, vyushechnye), as well as various poludverki;
grate (ash-pit) lattice of iron or steel; valves and dampers made of cast iron; ovens; Flap of iron or steel roofing; whole plate — with one or two burners or components — with or without plates.
Furnace devices must be chosen taking into account the design of the furnace.
Kiln masonry joints should have a thin, vertical angles, horizontal rows, smooth surface. The furnace is being built on solid foundations. If it has to be put on the foundation of the old furnace, then if necessary pre-repair and change waterproof lining. Foundations in terms of dimensions may be equal to the size of the furnace or somewhat more. If stove is set near the wall at home, between the foundation and the wall oven leave a gap of at least 30 — 50 mm, filled with sand. Sole dug into the foundation soil to 500-600 mm, and a recess made somewhat larger than the foundation. Bottom line the recess and sealed with heavy beetles then lay the foundation level, or the first number of its masonry. The foundation can be made of stone, concrete and well-baked bricks, such as iron ore. Masonry should be conducted with good bandaging of seams, depends on the quality of masonry, its strength. Between the stones should not be voids, which could lead to warping and uneven cake furnace. If constructing a solid foundation, the excavation put formwork and pour it with concrete. For greater strength is desired in the concrete reinforcing steel insert pieces. Laying the foundation of any end to the two rows of bricks (130-150 mm) below the finished floor. Its surface must be exactly horizontal. If the foundation is cast in concrete, it kept 2--3 weeks before proceeding to the laying of the furnace.
On the prepared foundation as evenly as possible are placed one row of bricks and covered with two layers of roofing felt or roofing material for waterproofing of soil water. On the roofing placed 2nd row of bricks, which should be flush with the floor, begins above the actual furnace brickwork.
For foundation best suited cement slurry comprising 1 part cement (grade 400), and 5 or 6 parts of sand, cement or mortar, in which 1 part cement 0.7 parts have lime paste and 6.5 parts of sand.
To perform the masonry using gon, rail or regulations, or twine meter mark out the future shape of the furnace. Then dry the bricks are laid, check whether the dressing seams and what is their thickness. Thereafter, the entire stack 1st row to the solution and again check it on a level. The thickness of the joints should be 4 — 5mm masonry of ordinary brick and 3 mm - for laying refractory and refractory bricks.
Horizontal and vertical joints should be completely filled with a solution of — through thick unfilled joints easily sparks that can cause fires. Furthermore, even in the filled thick seams often cracks, through which furnace flue or cold air penetrates into the channels.
He breaks traction and creates dymlenie. In operation, the furnace should be checked periodically laying horizontal, vertical and lateral sides. Since it spent a lot of time laying the furnace to perform better in the rack rails or in the mobile formwork — a box without a bottom, which is moving on racks mounted and fixed vertically. Once the formwork is filled with brick masonry, it is raised to the desired height and re-secured.
In the course of laying the inner and outer surfaces are cleaned of excess solution squeezed out (by hand or with a trowel), and the inner surface of the firebox and chimney, in addition, mop or wipe with a wet cloth. It is impossible to coat the clay mortar of the firebox and chimney, t. To. The solution is dried quickly falls off and clog them. A chimney, the firebox, the internal surface of the pipes should be made as smooth as possible, without irregularities that hinder the good movement of gases and degrade the performance of the furnace. All corners and angles of the channels it is necessary to round off and narrowing or widening to make smooth, to improve traction.
Grates located below the flue openings 1-2 several clutches (70-140 cm) with a gap between the array and laying at least 10 mm around the perimeter. If this is not done, the expanding metal lattice upset masonry. Cast iron plate or iron flooring laid on a thin layer of clay solution horizontally.
Designed for masonry brick oven pre-sorted. Most good bricks, with flat faces without cracks and chips used for masonry firebox and flue channels. Bricks pick the same thickness, otherwise get a smooth thin seams virtually impossible.
A chimney, firebox of the furnace and the other exposed to high temperatures, it is recommended to put out as much as bricks, because cleaved and hewn bricks are less strong and rapidly destroyed. Typically, the furnace is put into half bricks, but there furnace brick and 1/4 and 3/4 of the brick and the brick 1. In the process of laying the bricks have to lay out different: flat (1/2 brick) on an edge (1/4 bricks), upright. For ligation joints depending on the size of a brick furnace used or its part Quartet, halves trehchetvertki. Well-regarded such ligation when overlapped seam is under the middle bricks, satisfactory — by overlapping 1/4 bricks and poor — at least 1/4 brick ceiling. Each row of masonry check, correct inaccuracies.
When the masonry oven is often necessary to reduce the size of bricks, or to change their shape. To this end, the bricks and kolyat otesyvayut using furnace hammer or kirochki. When splitting across the brick take your left hand and the right is applied on a pre-made hammer on brick notch enough bounce. To make it easier to work and receive a beautiful masonry, bricks pre-selected and laid out on a number of in such a way that the seam between them was 4-5 mm. Matched bricks removed and placed in a certain order, and then one by one, moistened in water, put on a clay solution in place. If the bricks are normally burned, they immersed in water to soak for a few minutes until the stop of them stand out air bubbles. If unburned bricks, red, they are not soaked, but only rinsed with water.
The solution is applied to the brick trowel or hand and smear an even layer of the desired thickness of the bed of bricks already laid in the masonry. Remove from the water as soon as a brick is laid in place, previously smeared its vertical face of a small amount of solution to form a vertical seam. Bricks laid on a place strongly pressed against one or both hands and grind to a solution, moving it back and forth, seeking thereby obtain a finer stitch. Occasionally a solution is not applied to the bricks laid layer, and stacking brick, just taken out of the water. If the bricks are kept soaking, it is best to lower the water once a number of bricks, and then one by one to remove and put back into place. Brick and mortar should be laid quickly and accurately as dehydrated brick solution quickly thickens and can not be finely razravnyat. It does not apply very thick solution, as it squeeze excess and get thin seam will be very difficult; the solution must be sufficiently liquid so that when slight pressure on brick masonry while its excess is easily squeezed out of the joints.
Ovens , built of brick soaked require prolonged drying. If natural drying for 7 — 10 days is not possible, it must be 2 — 3 times a day to heat it using small amounts of fuel (15-25% of the normal amount), fully open the doors, valves, dampers. Drying is considered complete when the furnace stop appearing raw spots, and on the valve or damper traces of moisture (condensate).
Devices (door latches, cleaning, etc.) Must be placed as soon as possible stronger. Fixing wire is not always reliable, t. To. She often burn out quickly. Therefore it is recommended to mount them on the legs — steel strips, one end of riveted or screwed to the device, while others — embedded in the masonry. Installing devices close to the clutch can not be, as the metal expands and can upset the clutch. Therefore, on each side of the device is necessary to leave a gap of at least 5 mm, which is filled with asbestos pull cord. You can fill in the gap and sheet asbestos, but its styling is more difficult and does not always fit tightly. All furnaces necessarily suit cleaning, through which soot is removed from the channel. If cleaning the door is closed, after setting cleansing laid brick put on an edge and bonded to the masonry with clay mortar. This is done for fire safety and to ensure that cleaning was not through slits, through which the channels can penetrate into the cold air, the cooling furnace. Soot brick is removed and then put back in place. If the doors have no purges, their closing halves of brick, mortar, but that these were halves of the front of the masonry 5 — 10 mm; This will indicate the location of cleaning and helps to remove the bricks from the hole. Sometimes, instead of putting the cleaning doors, boxes of roofing steel, the same size as the cleanout door.
Shoe-box — This frame, which includes a box filled with a piece of brick with clay mortar (thickness of the brick must be equal to the thickness of the wall of the furnace). You can do without a box frame by inserting it into the hole masonry and plastered with clay mortar. Boxes easy to produce from a roofing steel. When installing the valve, check the ease of travel and the lack of large gaps in the closed position (it is recommended to make when purchasing).
Some ovens have a significant drawback — They are condensed moisture which forms as a result of selection to the cooled walls of the chimney of water vapor and tar vapor formed during combustion. Over time, the condensate permeates through the masonry stove, it becomes moist, reduces craving and masonry is rapidly destroyed. The condensate has a specific smell.
The appearance of condensate, in addition to Tang, also show spots and stripes of black, which sometimes appear on the surface of the oven, sometimes a large part of the surface of the furnace becomes black. To remove stains from the outside of the oven, the best places to cut and plastered with cement mortar, but sometimes it's easier to replace the entire clutch. It's not as hard as the first condensate is shown at the top of the furnace and the bottom of the tube, that is where the ends proper furnace in the attic or a false floor.
To the moisture contained in the hot (combustion) gases not condensed on the walls of pipes, the gas temperature must be increased. It was found that the normal temperature of the exhaust gases from the furnace before leaving the chimney must not be less than 120 — 140 'C and at the outlet of the pipe into the atmosphere — 100 & deg; C
If the flue gas when leaving the chimney, that is, dampers, have a temperature of about 250 & deg; C, the condensate is never pull — good, and the furnace heats up quickly at low fuel consumption.
The temperature of the exhaust gases can be roughly determined using the dry torch, which lay across the opening dampers in the furnace. After 30 — 40 min splinter removed and cleaned of soot. If the color of the wood is not changed, it means that the temperature did not exceed 150 & deg; C;
excellent.